section heading hidden

Gauntlets and Handling Essentials

Every falconer’s first purchase should be a proper gauntlet. A gardening glove will not do. The gauntlet protects your forearm from talons and gives the bird a secure, stable perch. For a kestrel, merlin or small owl, a lighter leather glove may suffice, but for a Harris’ hawk, buzzard or red-tailed hawk you need thick, supple leather that covers the forearm to just below the elbow. Fit matters more than thickness: too stiff and you cannot feel the bird’s grip; too loose and the bird slides. Check the seams and stitching, especially where the cuff meets the hand. Most falconers wear the bird on the left hand if right-handed, leaving the right hand free for jesses, hood and equipment. A spare gauntlet in your kit bag is sensible, along with a secure travel box or cadge for moving birds safely. Never carry a hawk on a bare hand, even a small one, and always keep the leash under control before you leave the weathering lawn.

Jesses, Swivels and the Leash

Jesses are the leather straps fitted to the bird’s legs, and they are the foundation of safe tethering. They must be soft, supple and correctly sized: narrow for a kestrel, wider for a large hawk. Traditional leather jesses are still favoured, though many falconers now use detachable jesses that allow swift replacement. Whatever style you choose, inspect them daily for cracks, stretching or weak rivets. A worn jess can snap at the worst moment.

The swivel connects the jesses to the leash and prevents the bird from twisting its legs. Choose brass or stainless-steel swivels with a smooth action. The leash itself should be leather or braided nylon, long enough to allow reasonable movement on the perch but short enough to prevent tangling. About 1.5 to 2 metres is typical for a bow perch. Never leave a bird tethered by a leash alone in an open space, and always secure the leash to a fixed point with a reliable knot or clip. Check the swivel and leash every time you pick the bird up.

Hoods, Bells and Training Lines

A hood is one of the most important tools for a calm, settled bird. It covers the eyes and reduces visual stress, which is especially valuable for falcons and nervous hawks. A hood must fit perfectly: too tight and it rubs; too loose and the bird can shake it off or catch a talon. Beginners should ask an experienced falconer to fit the first hood and show them how to put it on without forcing. Keep the hood on a shaped block when not in use so it holds its form. Bells, attached with soft leather bewits, help you locate a bird in cover or long grass. Use two bells of slightly different tones if you can, and check the bewits for wear.

For training, a creance is invaluable. This is a light, strong line that lets a young bird fly short distances while remaining under control. Pair it with a lure or a bag of food, depending on the species and your training plan. A good training bag should also contain spare jesses, a spare swivel and a small knife. Patience is the real essential here; the equipment simply supports it.

Perches, Mews and the Bath

A bird needs somewhere safe, clean and comfortable to sit. The bow perch is the classic choice for hawks, while falcons often do better on a block perch with a flat top. Cover the perch with replaceable material such as astroturf or soft turf, and make sure it is fixed firmly. The mews, or housing, must be weatherproof, well ventilated and secure against predators. It should offer shade, shelter and a quiet corner where the bird can rest undisturbed. A weathering lawn or weathering area gives access to natural light and fresh air, but it must be safe from dogs, cats and foxes.

A heavy, shallow bath is essential. It should be wide enough for the bird to stand in and deep enough to splash, but stable enough that it cannot tip. Clean water daily, and scrub the bath regularly to prevent algae. Good hygiene prevents foot problems and feather damage. This is also the place to keep a spare perch cover and a safe container for food.

Scales, Records and First Aid

Weight is the falconer’s most important daily measurement. A digital scale that reads in 1-gram increments, with a capacity of at least 5 kilograms, is ideal for most UK birds. Weigh your bird at the same time each day, usually before feeding, and record the figure. A sudden drop or rise tells you more than any guess. Keep a notebook or simple chart for weight, food intake, moult notes and behaviour.

• First aid kit: self-adhesive bandage, antiseptic, tweezers, small scissors, styptic powder for broken blood feathers, and a leather hole punch for jesses.
• Daily checks: feet, beak, feathers, jesses, swivel, leash and perch.
• Food: fresh, appropriate quarry or day-old chicks, stored safely and thawed properly.

Do not overlook the value of a good falconry bag. It keeps everything tidy and ready: hood, spare jesses, swivel, leash, bells, creance, knife, water and food. A dedicated bag means you are never searching for a missing swivel in the wet grass.

Telemetry and Field Kit

Telemetry is not strictly necessary for a beginner, but it is one of the most reassuring pieces of kit once you start flying a bird at liberty. A lightweight radio transmitter, fitted as a tail mount or backpack, works with a hand-held receiver and aerial to help you find a lost bird. Learn how to use it before you need it, and check the battery before every flight. Bells and telemetry together give you the best chance of recovery.

Your field kit should also include a lure, a creance for early training, a spare hood, and weatherproof clothing that lets you move quietly. In the UK, our weather changes fast, so a waterproof coat and sturdy boots are practical falconry equipment too. Above all, buy the best you can afford, keep it clean and inspect it often. Good kit does not replace good husbandry, but it makes the partnership between falconer and bird safer, calmer and far more rewarding.