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A Guide to Falconry Hoods and Their Uses

Why Falconry Hoods Matter

A hood is one of the most important pieces of kit a falconer can own. For a bird of prey, sight is everything. A hawk or falcon that can see movement, other birds, or potential quarry will react — often sharply. That reaction can lead to injury, stress, or a spoiled flight. The hood removes that visual trigger. By covering the eyes, it settles the bird, lowers its heart rate, and allows it to rest. In British falconry, hoods are used daily: during transport in the car or on a train, while waiting at a field meet, and during the early stages of manning and training. A well-fitted hood is not a blindfold in the crude sense; it is a precision tool that gives the bird calm and the falconer control.

Traditional Styles of Falconry Hood

Different hood designs suit different species and different falconers. The most common styles you will see in the UK include:

  • Anglo-Indian hood: A sturdy, rounded hood with a wide opening. It is forgiving to fit and works well for larger falcons such as the peregrine. Many British falconers start here.
  • Dutch hood: A close-fitting, elegant design with a distinctive raised crown. It offers a very precise fit and is popular for falcons and some hawks. It requires more skill to shape and fit correctly.
  • Arab hood: Traditionally made from soft leather, often with a decorative tassel or plume. It sits low on the head and is excellent for smaller falcons and kestrels.
  • Indian hood: A taller, more open style, often used for hawks such as the goshawk. It allows a little more airflow but still blocks the line of sight.
  • Block hood: A simple, robust hood carved from a single block of wood or leather. It is often used for training or as a spare.

The choice comes down to the individual bird. A hood that suits a peregrine may rub a Harris hawk. Always try a few styles under supervision before committing.

Materials and Craftsmanship

Falconry hoods are made from leather, and the type of leather matters enormously. Kangaroo leather is a favourite because it is thin, strong, and holds its shape without being stiff. Goat and cowhide are also used, though they can be heavier. Some modern hoods use synthetic materials, but traditionalists prefer leather for its breathability and how it softens with use.

Inside, a good hood has a soft lining — often chamois or a thin suede — to protect the bird's face. The braces (the straps that hold the hood closed) are usually made from the same leather, with a small metal or plastic toggle. A well-made hood is stitched by hand, with no rough edges inside. Look for even stitching, a smooth interior, and a shape that mirrors the bird's head without pinching. British makers often use a wooden block to form the hood, which gives a consistent shape and a professional finish.

Fitting a Hood Correctly

Fitting is where most problems begin. A hood that is too tight will rub the eyes or nostrils, causing sores and stress. Too loose, and the bird can shake it off or catch a claw in the braces. Here is a practical routine:

  • Check the beak line. The front opening should sit so that the bird's beak rests just inside, not pressed against the leather. You should be able to see the tip of the beak when the hood is on.
  • Look at the eye cups. They must sit over the eyes without pressing on the eyelids. There should be no gap that lets light in, but no pressure either.
  • Test the crown. The top of the hood should rest lightly on the skull. If it lifts or tilts, the hood is too big.
  • Fasten the braces. They should be snug enough to keep the hood in place but loose enough to slip a finger under. Never tie them in a knot; use the toggle.
  • Watch the bird. A properly hooded bird will sit quietly, often with its feathers relaxed. If it shakes its head constantly, the fit is wrong.

Always fit a hood in a calm, enclosed space. Have a second person help if you are new to it. A mirror can be useful to check the fit from the bird's perspective — though the bird will not thank you for the delay.

Hooding, Training, and Care

Hooding a bird is a skill built over many repetitions. Start with a bird that is already used to being handled. Offer the hood from below, slide it gently over the beak, and fasten the braces without fuss. Reward calm behaviour with a small piece of food. Never force a hood on a panicking bird; that teaches fear. With patience, most birds accept the hood within a few weeks.

Once hooded, a bird can be carried safely, weighed, or transported. It can also be used during training to teach a bird to stand quietly on the fist while other birds fly. That is invaluable at a field meet.

Care for your hood as you would any leather item. Wipe it clean with a damp cloth after use, and let it dry naturally away from direct heat. Apply a little neatsfoot oil or a dedicated leather balm every few months to keep it supple. Store it in a pouch or box, not loose in a bag where it can be crushed. A well-cared-for hood will last for years, and it will mould to your bird's head like a second skin.

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5 Comments

  1. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

    Reply
    • John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

      I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

      Reply
      • Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

        I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

        Reply
  2. Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system

    Reply

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